Tree Planting in Oakland County

Updated September 2026 · Written by Rob Burgund, ISA Certified Arborist MI-4857A

• ISA Certified Arborist MI-4857A
• Working in Oakland County since 2013
• Licensed and insured
• 5.0 stars from 15 Google reviews

Written by Rob Burgund

ISA Certified Arborist · MI-4857A
Rob quotes and does every planting job himself. He has been doing tree work in Oakland County since 2013. More about Rob and Tree Pros.

What we do

Planting a tree is a small job compared with removal, but it is the one job where a mistake does not show up for years, which is exactly why it is worth doing right the first time.

• Site check. We look at drainage, sun exposure, soil, overhead lines and how much room the mature canopy will actually need before recommending a species, not after.
• Sourcing. We source healthy, well-formed nursery stock, container-grown or balled-and-burlapped, and inspect the root ball before it goes in the ground.
• Planting at the correct depth. The root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, goes at grade, not buried under soil or a mound of mulch. This one detail is the difference between a tree that establishes and one that quietly declines over several years.
• First-year care advice. Watering schedule, mulch depth, and what to watch for, in writing if you want it, so the tree’s first two summers do not undo the planting itself.

Why planting depth is the part that actually matters

Roots grow mostly sideways, not down. Michigan State University Extension notes that roughly 80 percent of a tree’s roots sit in the top 18 to 24 inches of soil. When the root flare is buried, by extra soil at planting or by mulch piled against the trunk over the years, those shallow roots do not get enough air, and the tree declines slowly: thinner growth, early fall color, dieback at the tips, sometimes not obvious for several years. Buried roots also tend to circle back toward the trunk instead of spreading out, and a root pressing against the trunk as both thicken can eventually girdle it. We check the flare on every tree we plant and set it level with, or slightly above, the surrounding grade, never at the top of the root ball or burlap.

Picking the right species for the site

Emerald ash borer killed most of the untreated ash in this region because so much of the local tree stock was one species. Michigan State University Extension’s guidance on tree selection centers on matching the plant to the site and avoiding that kind of monoculture, roughly no more than 10 percent of any one species in a given planting. Species native to Michigan and well suited to home landscapes here include red maple, which handles wet or acidic soil and colors well in fall, American hornbeam and ironwood for tougher or shadier sites, and honeylocust, Kentucky coffeetree and serviceberry. We will tell you which of those, or another option entirely, fits your specific spot rather than what happens to be in stock.

Planting hole, mulch and watering

The Michigan Department of Natural Resources recommends a saucer-shaped hole as deep as the root ball but about three times as wide, with the sides roughed up so new roots can push through. Mulch goes 3 to 4 inches deep, but pulled back into a 6-inch bare ring around the trunk, not piled against the bark. New trees need deep, regular watering through the first year, more in hot, dry stretches, watering the whole area under the branch spread rather than just the trunk, and continued watering through a dry second summer. Fertilizer is not recommended at planting or for the first three years; a new tree’s priority is root establishment, not top growth.

Staking: usually skipped, sometimes needed

Most trees we plant do not need staking at all. Michigan DNR guidance reserves it for windy sites, a dense crown, or a trunk over about 3 inches in diameter. When staking is warranted, two stakes go in six to eight inches outside the root ball, the trunk is tied loosely below the first branch with a wide strap rather than wire, and the stakes come out after one year. Left in place longer than that, staking actually weakens the trunk, since a young tree needs some movement in wind to build the taper and strength it will rely on for the rest of its life.

Replacing a tree you lost

If you are replacing a tree removed for storm damage or emerald ash borer, give the new tree some distance from where the old stump was ground. Fresh chips and sawdust left underground tie up nitrogen as they break down, competing with new roots right when they need it most. Our stump grinding guide covers timing and what to expect if you are planning both jobs together.

Full planting depth guide →What to plant after losing an ash →Tree health care and root flare excavation →

Frequently asked questions