Stump grinding in Oakland County, MI
Updated August 2026 · Reviewed by Robert Burgund, ISA Certified Arborist MI-4857A
- Established 2013
- 13+ Years Climbing Experience
- ISA Certified Arborist MI-4857A
- Fully Licensed & Insured
Why the stump is worth dealing with
Leave the stump and you have kept a piece of the problem. It is a trip hazard and a mowing obstacle from day one.
As it decays it becomes prime real estate for carpenter ants, and a host for the decay fungi that can move on to healthy trees nearby.
A few species keep fighting after they are cut. Tree of heaven, black locust, poplar and aspen, and sassafras will send suckers up through the lawn for years, sometimes well away from where the tree stood.
Most species, silver maple included, only sprout from the stump and root collar. Grinding the stump out ends it.

Grinding or full excavation?
| Method | Typical cost | What you are left with |
|---|---|---|
| Stump grinding | $125 per foot of diameter | Ground 6–12″ below grade, chips backfilled or hauled. Ready to seed. |
| Full root excavation | $400 – $1,000+ | The entire root plate removed. What you need before hardscaping or replanting in the exact same spot. |
Grinding is the right answer for most yards. Full excavation earns its cost when a patio or a fence post or a replacement tree is going exactly where the old one stood.
What sets the price
- Diameter. The price is $125 per foot of stump width, measured at its widest point. A stump two feet across is twice the job of one a foot across.
- Access. The grinder has to get there. Narrow gates and slopes and soft ground all add time.
- The flare. A stump that spreads wide at the base is a bigger job than its trunk diameter suggests.
- What is buried nearby. Irrigation lines, invisible dog fencing and utilities all need locating before the teeth go in.
- The chips. Grinding throws off a surprising volume of them. Backfilling the hole costs nothing, and hauling them away costs more.
If we are already on site removing the tree, grinding the stump then and there skips a second trip entirely. It is almost always cheaper than calling anyone back later, us included.
Stump grinding questions we hear every week
How deep do you grind?
Six to twelve inches below grade, which is enough to lay sod or seed right over the spot, and deeper on request if you are replanting or building. Worth knowing: no industry standard actually requires a depth, and a routine grind from many outfits is only 4 to 6 inches. Ask any company you are considering for their number.
Will the roots keep growing?
No. Once the stump is gone the roots have no leaves feeding them, and they decay in place. The handful of sucker-prone species mentioned above can push shoots a while longer, but even those taper off within a season or two after grinding.
What happens to all the chips?
By default we backfill the hole with them, and the mound settles over a few weeks. We can also haul them off, or leave them piled for you to use as mulch elsewhere in the yard.
Can I plant a new tree in the same spot?
Not in the same hole right away. The grindings mix into the backfill, and as that buried wood breaks down it temporarily ties up the nitrogen right where new roots would need it. Chips spread on the surface as mulch do not cause this, which is a separate and stubborn myth.
Iowa State University’s extension service suggests planting at least three feet away, ideally six to eight. Either give the new tree that distance, or have the old root zone excavated fully.
Do you grind stumps you did not remove?
All the time. Old stumps are routine work, though a long-dead stump occasionally hides stones or old fence wire that slow the grinder down.
Want a ballpark before we even visit?
Text us a photo of the stump and a rough diameter, and we can usually give you a number on the spot.
Call or Text 248-672-8058Request a Free Estimate
